논문 해외 국제전문학술지(SCI급) FIELD OBSERVATION AND NUMERICAL MODELLING OF RIP CURRENTS WITHIN A POCKET BEACH
- 학술지 구분 국제전문학술지(SCI급)
- 게재년월 2017-03
- 저자명 정태화
- 학술지명 JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
- 발행처명 COASTAL EDUCATION & RESEARCH FOUNDATION
- 발행국가 해외
- 논문언어 외국어
- 전체저자수 5
논문 초록 (Abstract)
Understanding the occurrence mechanism of rip currents are very important in terms of the sediment transport and the water safe ty issues. In order to investigate the rip current occurrence mech anism, field observations were carried out at Chunjin beach and a nume rical model was employed to simulate rip currents by using the field observation data. The collected data set includes the beach to pography, bottom bathymetries, shoreline, sand sample, and incident wave s for each season. The field observation data showed the spatiotempo ral variations of shoreline and sand bars. The results also showed that the rip currents were generated near the crescentic sand bar. For better understanding the mechanism of rip currents, numerical simula tion using phase- resolving, three-dimensional 3D Non-Hydrostatic WAVE M odel (NH WAVE) was also carried out. The model considered incoming wav e conditions collected from the field observation to look at th e nearshore current generation patterns. Through this numerical model, this study could have investigated vertical profiles of nears hore wave-induced current while the field observation data represe nt depth uniform currents. The numerical simulation showed a good agre ement with the field observation and provided useful information for nea rshore circulation.
