논문 해외 국제전문학술지(SCI급) Analytical solutions for long waves over a circular island
- 학술지 구분 국제전문학술지(SCI급)
- 게재년월 2010-04
- 저자명 정태화
- 학술지명 COASTAL ENGINEERING
- 발행처명 ELSEVIER SCIENCE BV
- 발행국가 해외
- 논문언어 외국어
- 전체저자수 3
홈페이지논문 초록 (Abstract)
In this study, we derive an analytical solution for long waves over a circular island which is mounted on a flat bottom. The water depth on the island varies in proportion to an arbitrary power, gamma, of the radial distance. Separation of variables.Taylor series expansion, a nd Frobenius series are used to find the solutions, which are then validated by comparing them with previously developed analytica l solutions. We also investigate how different wave periods, radi i of the island toe, and gamma values affect the solutions. For a circul ar island with a small value of gamma (e.g. gamma = 2/3, as in the equilibrium beach (Bruun, 1954)), the wave rays approaching nea r the island center reach the coastline, whereas the raysapproaching away from the center bend away from the coastline, leading to smalle r wave amplitudes along the coast. However, for a circular island with a large value of gamma, e.g. gamma = 2, all the rays on the island reac h the coast, giving largecoastline wave amplitudes. If the island do main is small compared to the wavelength, the wave amplitudes on the co astline do not increase significantly: however, when the island domain is not small, the wave amplitudes increase significantly. If gamma is also large, the amplitudes can be so large as to cause a disaster o n the island. (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.